The Theory of Balance
Balance is the synchronised stimulation of the basic flavour profiles in a concentration that does not overpower the taste receptors.
This is the working definition. It is also the longest of the three theories, because it does the most heavy lifting. The full essay was originally written for Be A Better Bartender on Medium and is reproduced below, in short form and a different voice.
The five basic flavour profiles
There are five tastes the human tongue is actually tuned to read.
- Sweet
- Sour
- Salty
- Bitter
- Umami (savoury)
Other sensations (pungency, piquancy, astringency, kokumi, numbness, coolness, fattiness) are real, important, and how a lot of modern cooking gets its character. They are not, however, basic flavours. They are textural and chemical signals layered on top of the five.
For the purposes of building a balanced drink, we work with the five.
The experiment
George once sat down with sugar syrup, saline solution, lime juice, Fernet Branca, and a glass of MSG dissolved in water, and drank a measured amount of each in isolation.
The sour, the salty, and the bitter all caused involuntary facial puckering and tightening, real physical reactions. The sweet and the umami did not.
This is not a coincidence. It is the body responding to each flavour at full concentration the way the body has been responding to those flavours for two hundred thousand years.
Why we like what we like
Each of the five flavours carries an evolutionary cue.
- Sweet. Ripe fruit, and therefore safe. The first flavour most children prefer.
- Umami. Present in breast milk. The second flavour most children prefer.
- Sour. A learned taste. Civilisation came up with fermentation and pickling and citrus, and we caught up.
- Salty. Historically tied to preservation. Useful, but not naturally preferred.
- Bitter. Nature’s warning that something might kill you. It takes conscious effort to enjoy.
From which we draw the working conclusion:
Balance is our brain’s way of telling us that something is safe for the body to consume.
That is what a well-balanced drink does. It tells the body: this is fine. Drink more of it.
Balance and concentration
The reason a glass of straight lime juice is unpleasant and a glass of lime juice cut with water is fine is concentration. The flavour profile is identical. The signal strength is not.
The brain is forgiving of slightly off-balance flavours at low concentration. It is unforgiving of even well-balanced flavours at high concentration. This is why a stirred drink at full strength has to be assembled with more precision than a long drink at half strength.
The minimum condition for balance
For a drink to read as balanced, at least two of the five profiles must be present in similar concentration. That is the floor.
Most drinks at The Spiffy Dapper run three or four profiles in synchronised stimulation. Five is rare and usually means somebody is showing off.
Worked example: the Sour
Equal parts lime juice and simple syrup. Sour and sweet in similar concentration. That is the spine of every sour cocktail ever written, from the Daiquiri forward.
Worked example: the Old Fashioned
Bourbon already brings sweet, umami, and a touch of bitter. Add a small amount of sugar to reinforce the sweet, a few dashes of bitters to reinforce the bitter, and the drink reads as a chord. The cocktail does not invent flavour profiles. It amplifies what is already in the base.
Balance as a moving target
Balance is subjective. It changes with exposure. Children prefer sweeter drinks. Long-time drinkers prefer bitter ones. Most people drift toward the flavours they once found challenging or dangerous.
We build for the room we’re in. A balanced Negroni at The Spiffy Dapper on a Saturday night and a balanced Negroni in a hotel lobby in March are not the same drink. The principle is the same. The dial is not.
See also: The Theory of the Cocktail · The Theory on the Process of Art · The original Medium essay · Our Approach